Gavin Bridge & Philippe Le Billon, Oil, 2nd edition
Anthony Burke, Uranium
Jennifer Clapp, Food, 2nd edition
Peter Dauvergne & Jane Lister, Timber
Elizabeth R. DeSombre & J. Samuel Barkin, Fish
David Lewis Feldman, Water
Gavin Fridell, Coffee
Derek Hall, Land
Andrew Herod, Labor
Michael Nest, Coltan
Bronwyn Parry and Beth Greenhough, Bioinformation
Ben Richardson, Sugar
Ian Smillie, Diamonds
Adam Sneyd, Cotton
Bill Winders, Grains
polity
Copyright © Kristy Leissle 2018
The right of Kristy Leissle to be identified as Author of this Work has been asserted in accordance with the UK Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
First published in 2018 by Polity Press
Polity Press
65 Bridge Street
Cambridge CB2 1UR, UK
Polity Press
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Suite 300
Medford, MA 02155, USA
All rights reserved. Except for the quotation of short passages for the purpose of criticism and review, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.
ISBN-13:978-1-5095-1320-8
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Names: Leissle, Kristy, author.
Title: Cocoa / Kristy Leissle.
Description: Medford, MA : Polity Press, 2018. | Series: Resources series | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017024116 (print) | LCCN 2017026237 (ebook) | ISBN 9781509513192 (Mobi) | ISBN 9781509513208 (Epub) | ISBN 9781509513161 (hardback) | ISBN 9781509513178 (pbk.)
Subjects: LCSH: Cocoa trade. | Chocolate industry.
Classification: LCC HD9200.A2 (ebook) | LCC HD9200.A2 L45 2018 (print) | DDC
338.4/766392--dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017024116
The publisher has used its best endeavours to ensure that the URLs for external websites referred to in this book are correct and active at the time of going to press. However, the publisher has no responsibility for the websites and can make no guarantee that a site will remain live or that the content is or will remain appropriate.
Every effort has been made to trace all copyright holders, but if any have been inadvertently overlooked the publisher will be pleased to include any necessary credits in any subsequent reprint or edition.
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Note: All spellings are true to organizational usage, here and elsewhere in this volume.
ADM | Archer Daniels Midland |
AGOA | African Growth and Opportunity Act (US) |
Caistab | Caisse de Stabilisation (Ivory Coast) |
CATIE | Centro Agronómico Tropical de Investigación y Enseñanza (Costa Rica) |
CBE | cocoa butter equivalent |
CCC | Conseil du Café-Cacao (Ivory Coast) |
COCOBOD | Ghana Cocoa Board |
EPZ | export processing zone |
EU | European Union |
FCCI | Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute |
FCIA | Fine Chocolate Industry Association |
FDA | Food and Drug Administration (US) |
FLO | Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International |
FOB | free on board |
FTZ | free trade zone |
GDP | gross domestic product |
GH₵ | Ghanaian cedis |
GNI | gross national income |
HCP | Heirloom Cacao Preservation Fund |
ICCO | International Cocoa Organization |
ICI | International Cocoa Initiative |
IITA | International Institute of Tropical Agriculture |
ILO | International Labour Office (permanent secretariat of the International Labour Organization) |
ILRF | International Labor Rights Forum |
IMF | International Monetary Fund |
IPEC | International Programme on the Elimination of Child Labour |
LBC | licensed buying company (Ghana) |
MT | metric tonnes |
NAFTA | North American Free Trade Agreement (Canada, Mexico, US) |
PBC | Produce Buying Company (Ghana) |
PISA | Produits des Iles SA (Haiti) |
QBCS | ICCO Quarterly Bulletin of Cocoa Statistics |
SAP | structural adjustment program |
USDA | United States Department of Agriculture |
USITC | United States International Trade Commission |
WTO | World Trade Organization |
My first thanks go to Louise Knight at Polity for extending the invitation to author Cocoa for the Resources series, and to Louise and Nekane Tanaka Galdos for their teamwork and support from proposal to printed volume. I am indebted to the many colleagues and friends who generously gave of their time and expertise, improving this book in innumerable ways. In Seattle, the constant friendship and bountiful knowledge of Lauren Adler and Bill Fredericks started shaping Cocoa long before I knew I would write it. In San Francisco, John Kehoe, Gary Guittard, and Amy Guittard welcomed me to Guittard Chocolate Company and shared insights from a family that has worked in the industry for five generations. Greg D’Alesandre at Dandelion Chocolate offered philosophical and practical insights into sourcing. I also thank Molly Gore at Dandelion for her expert engagement with my writing over the years. Dr. Carla Martin and Colin Gasko kindly allowed me to observe a Cacao Grader Intensive workshop, and Carla offered further insights into the work of the Fine Cacao and Chocolate Institute in an interview. From Accra, Priscilla Addison and Kimberly Addison at ’57 Chocolate thoughtfully shared their experiences in an email interview. In London, Sophi Tranchell and Charlotte Borger at Divine Chocolate graciously gave interviews and read lengthy portions of the manuscript. I am enormously grateful to Sophi for her unwavering support of my research and writing, starting with my doctoral fieldwork and continuing to this day. Jesse Last at Taza Chocolate, Zohara Mapes Bediz and Laura Sweitzer at TCHO Chocolate, and Hannah Davis and Matt Earlam at Twin & Twin Trading all read portions of the manuscript and gave formative insights into price, quality, and trade justice. I am thankful for thoughtprovoking conversations with Dr. Jean-Marc Anga and Dr. Michele Nardella at the International Cocoa Organization price risk management workshop in Freetown, as well as a stimulating email exchange with Jane Franch at Numi Organic Tea on the politics of certification. My students in the winter 2016 UWB course, History and Globalization, pushed my thinking with their superb work on the geopolitics of coffee, coltan, diamonds, fish, land, oil, sugar, timber, water – and, of course, cocoa. At crucial moments, Mark Christian and Steve DeVries both read chapters with an immediacy and encouragement that elevated this book in every way. I give thanks for their dedication to advancing our knowledge of cocoa and chocolate. As a scholar with access to a seemingly inexhaustible library system, I have enjoyed many moments of revelation by engaging with English language works on cocoa and chocolate. I have also had the privilege of learning through fieldwork. I thank Hormazd Dastur for opening the door to my earliest work in Ghana, and Tony BouDib, who kept it open even as my departure flight from Accra left the runway. No words are sufficient to thank all the farmers, buyers, managers, graders, depot workers, truck drivers, factory staff, and agricultural officers in Hawaii, Malaysia, Ghana, Ivory Coast, and Sierra Leone who have enlightened and informed me. Among them, I especially thank Percy Yalley for his guidance and mentorship. I was fortunate to complete portions of this manuscript at two writing residencies, and acknowledge Writing Between the Vines, especially founder Marcy Gordon and the staff at Moshin Vineyards, for supporting my time in Sonoma, California, and UW Bothell Interdisciplinary Arts & Sciences, as well as Miriam Bartha, for supporting a residency at the Helen Riaboff Whiteley Center on San Juan Island, Washington. At the latter, I appreciated the company of my UWB colleagues, and particularly thank Rob Trumbull for introducing me to the transformative concept of writing units. I am indebted to three anonymous peer reviewers, whose expertise and insights improved this book immeasurably; any omissions or errors are mine alone. Cocoa would never have been in my stewardship were it not for a decisive moment of encouragement, many years ago, from Anita Verna Crofts and Ken Peavler. I hope to show them my gratitude with lasting friendship. Though long hours at a desk sometimes made it feel otherwise, I was never truly alone while writing Cocoa. My heart had the constant support of my family of friends, Anita, Ken, Gina, Amy, Memo, Brad, Christopher, Ariella, and Michelle, and of my boundlessly loving family, Denise, Christine, Joe, and Adrienne. Finally, I offer my affectionate gratitude to Gavin, who bore witness to the writing of this book each and every day, always with unconditional love.